The Lavery

The handsome Georgian townhouse once occupied by the Anglo-Irish war artist Sir John Lavery has been restored to provide an elegant, cooly refined first-floor restaurant reached by a grand staircase. The uncluttered, creamy-white interior with its ornate plasterwork and soaring gilt-edged mirrors captures the light from sky-high windows, while the bar area is dominated by a sweeping zinc counter. Moving into the main room, you'll find contemporary wooden seating and a shiny parquet-pattened floor. Some diners by the window, however, are deprived of a view and others next to the lofty open period doors may feel hemmed in. 

The seasonal, Mediterranean-influenced menu from chef Yohei Furuhashi (ex River Café and Toklas) reflects the sophisticated simplicity of the setting. The compact lunch menu gives way to a slightly longer dinner offering featuring dishes such as monkfish with clams, zucchini, coco beans and mojo verde or guinea fowl with prosciutto, sage, Marsala, olives and spinach. A pretty lunch starter of grilled squid, fresh borlotti beans, rocket and chilli was tender, creamy and light, set off by the sharp astringency of the rocket. Scottish sea trout was precisely cooked and elegantly plated but served with an underwhelming smattering of grilled vegetables.

To finish, the Original Bean chocolate mousse with Agen prunes is already being hailed as a signature dessert, although on our visit the only pudding available was a disappointing ricotta and almond cake. The European-focused wine list includes a decent choice by the glass. For something more casual, try the no-bookings daytime café on the ground floor.