The Lamb Inn

‘We feel so blessed to have this gem on our doorstep,' proclaims a regular, but this thatched 16th-century village pub attracts praise from further afield for its cosiness, its welcoming staff and, above all, its food. Chef Nat Berney arrived in 2024 after a four-year stint learning the ropes at Raymond Blanc’s prestigious gaff in neighbouring Great Milton. At the back is a small patio garden, popular with summertime drinkers (there are local real ales on tap), while inside, it is all low ceilings, ancient beams and woodburning stoves. 

When booking, we received stern guidance to arrive at 6pm and leave by 8pm, but any irritation was forgotten when the dishes arrived. Expectations from the brief but posh pub menu are immediately outstripped by some classy execution. Following a refreshing gazpacho-like aperitif, served gratis, mushroom parfait had a sensational caramel-like texture and deep umami flavours, presented piped around crisp fried onions. Big flavours also bellowed out from a sweetcorn velouté, which surrounded a precisely placed scallop on a bed of roasted leeks and sweetcorn. Next, a dish of faultlessly cooked plaice was served whole with girolles and plentiful lemon persillade butter sauce, while a juicy, pink lamb rack matched with tempura courgette flower, tomatoes, blobs of basil cream and terrific gravy (prepared over many hours, the enthusiastic owner explained), showed classical culinary training put to admirable use. 

Perhaps our meal was overly rich, and our chosen dessert of luscious compôte cherries came with a ‘panna cotta’ more akin to brûlée, but there’s exciting potential here. A diverting wine list, priced for inquisitive drinkers rather than show-offs, adds to the allure. Pizzas (from a wood-fired oven) are served on Tuesdays.