The Kitchin
Edinburgh, Lothians
Tom and Michaela Kitchin's restaurant in a converted whisky warehouse has long been one of the brightest stars in the Leith waterfront firmament, a long-established fixture by now, but one still imbued with the 'nature to plate' spirit with which Tom Kitchin set out – now realised by head chef Lachlan Archibald. Premium Scottish produce retains star billing throughout, from Orkney scallops baked in their shells to spoots (razor clams) from the Isle of Barra to Hopetoun roe deer and Balcaskie pork, via a maritime cavalcade of exemplary white fish. The latter might produce a main dish of steamed halibut with new season's asparagus and a hollandaise of smoked butter – simplicity itself, but with each element outstanding. Aged grass-fed blackface lamb is redolent of the Lanarkshire hillsides, and straightforwardly garnished with potato terrine and a salsa verde of turnip tops. That dishes as disarmingly simple as these should be so revelatory is testament to the Kitchin's approach. To finish, there could be chocolate soufflé and pistachio ice cream, or a baba doused in Scottish rum, alongside Granny Smith apple and raisins doused in more rum. The surprise tasting menus are an extended voyage of happy discovery. A wine list of exceptional quality has been compiled, opening with a brilliant selection in two glass sizes and half-bottle carafes. The exciting cocktails are worth a look too, if it's going to be that sort of evening.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Credit card required
78 Commercial Quay, Leith, Edinburgh, Lothians EH6 6LX
0131 555 1755