The Kitchin

Tom Kitchin’s flagship has been solidly rooted in a converted whisky warehouse in Leith’s old docks since 2006 and is considered a mainstay of Edinburgh’s restaurant scene. That said, we were beginning to feel that it was becoming somewhat predictable (if not complacent), although a recent lunchtime visit showed a renewed sense of energy and vitality, combined with a desire to focus on this ‘jewel in the crown’ within the wider Kitchin portfolio. The dining room is intimate and relaxed, while a glazed wall allows guests a glimpse of the culinary theatre under the confident direction of head chef Lachlan Archibald – with Tom delivering regular cameos out front and at the pass.

The generous set lunch is complemented by a series of tasting menus as well as a carte – all offering exceptional seasonal ingredients given the classical French treatment, but with strong Scottish overtones. Highlights of our meal ranged from a gutsy yet subtle venison carpaccio arranged on intensely flavoured bone-broth jelly and finished with hazelnuts, pickled sprout tops, Parmesan shavings and pickled wild garlic bulbs to intense, glossy braised beef shin with Café de Paris butter and pommes Pont-Neuf, the rich caramelised flavours offset by a blue cheese salad.

Elsewhere, Hebridean lamb pithivier (slow-braised shoulder in a golden casing) displayed pretty pastry work, while morsels of rare rump were complemented by vibrant carrot variations spiked with Espelette pepper. Among the well-judged and grown-up desserts, our lemon soufflé (paired with local crème fraîche) was a towering temptation – almost criminal to deflate with a spoon. Service was spot-on. A comprehensive but never overwhelming wine list successfully balances classical and contemporary options, with a good range available by the glass and carafe.