The Hoebridge

The iron suspension bridge over the Tweed appears in one of Turner's sketchbooks in 1834, when it was less than a year old. At its northern end is Gattonside, where the Hoebridge has been transformed from a run-of-the-mill village inn into a clean modern space for quality eating and drinking. Whitewashed stone walls, with bare tables and floors, are offset by an arrangement of backlit wine-bottles for subtle contrast, and the cooking makes its own statement, using contemporary techniques and ingredients for creative impact. One well-reported meal opened with courgette flowers stuffed with ricotta alongside broad bean pesto (a little undermined by an overload of chilli), but main dishes inspired confidence. A fillet of sea bass was surmounted by mussels and a langoustine with an assertive fennel-based sauce, while properly rare chateaubriand with beans and tapenade was spot-on for timing and balance. Otherwise, there might be pork belly with grilled Padrón peppers and a 'hush puppy' or pot-roast guinea fowl with prunes and mascarpone. Dessert could be raspberry mousse in a white chocolate shell with whisky ice cream or lemon-verbena yoghurt posset with meringue. Local cheeses are served with membrillo. An excellent international wine list boasts many fine forward-thinking estates. A handful are available by the glass, although the measure ought to be specified.