The Fox & Hounds

As settings go, this is a cracker, tucked in a valley near a rambling stream surrounded by trees and greenery. Inside, it’s very much a village pub, with a proper locals’ bar, but the dining room is a slightly more serious prospect – subtly smart, but still rustic, with well-spaced tables and a menu driven by local fare. Expect elevated pub dishes – maybe smoked haddock fishcakes to start, with fennel kimchi, yuzu mayonnaise and sprightly coriander, or Parmesan polenta chips with harissa mayonnaise. Main courses cover all the pub classics: beer-battered haddock and chips with crushed peas, tartare sauce and curry ketchup; honey-roast ham and chips; steak pie with buttered greens, chips and gravy; local steak and chips. There are appealing meat-free options, too, such as butternut squash and potato pie or a double-stacked veggie burger with Emmental cheese, burger sauce, lettuce and house chips. The crowd-pleasing vibe extends to desserts along the lines of sticky toffee pudding with clotted-cream ice cream or a warm chocolate brownie with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce, but there are also lively spins on the familiar, such as lime posset with mango compote, cardamon biscuit crumb and a coconut and vanilla sorbet. A modest but appealing wine list offers most options by the glass, with a focus on affordability.