The Elizabeth

The setting may be vintage – on the site of Belgravia institution the Ebury Wine Bar, which closed in 2017 after nearly 60 years – but the concept is anything but. First impressions of this contemporary dining pub are charming; it feels light, intimate, low-key and very neighbourhood.

One enters via a small, convivial bar offering snacks such as cheese croquettes or whipped cod’s roe, before settling in the two-tiered dining room. Here, good food with a noble heritage is the lure – Anthony Demetre of Wild Honey oversees a menu that confirms his commitment to creative, ingredients-led bistro cooking with French leanings. There are some inspiring culinary ideas on offer here: Demetre’s trademarks of wonderful balance and flavour combinations are evinced by an ‘it has to be mustard’ dish of rabbit, carrots and persillade, and by properly made desserts (fruit tarts, pavlovas, brûlées etc). 

The Elizabeth may be located in a seriously expensive part of town, but any fears of scary prices are soon dispelled – particularly by the extremely good-value two/three-course set weekday menu (served at lunch and early dinner). Our visit produced a seasonally pitch-perfect autumnal squash soup with seaweed tartare, and a delicious slow-cooked game ragù with hand-rolled pappardelle and salsa verde. With confident, well-informed service and a fairly priced wine list added to the mix, is this another institution in the making?