The Cow

Launched by Tom Conran in 1995, the Cow wears its age well. Regulars agree that the old girl’s still got it – and it doesn’t feel artificially designed to be ‘authentic’. If it’s distressed in parts, that's funky old age. Much of the atmosphere is, of course, down to the customers: a jazzy mix of punters who like a decent pint and a plate of good grub in a great boozer. A large Irish flag sets an expectation of good old 'Oirish' tropes. Thankfully, any pastiche fits in unassumingly with the pub's signature oysters and stout. In the rear snug, dishes are chalked on a hanging board. The vibe is raffish and relaxed, and the rhythm is easy: no pretension, nothing faddish or super-fancy, simply a clear focus and excellent ingredients. The menu has a timeless, aristocratic domesticity: stay downstairs for capacious, fill-your-boots portions of bangers and mash, seafood platters and daily specials such as grilled lemon sole on the bone with peppery watercress; head upstairs to the intimate restaurant for suave dishes including roasted venison fillet with pommes purée, pickled girolles and kale. For afters, banoffee pie is an evergreen, as is the excellent Guinness ice cream.