The Counter

Chef Robin Read honed his craft working alongside the likes of Marco Pierre White and Nico Ladenis before embarking on a career cooking in hotels and restaurants worldwide. In 2024, he returned to his roots and opened this cosy yet sophisticated venue – a place to cherish, with its mood of no-frills simplicity and striking modern artwork on black-panelled walls. As the name suggests, the focus is on the chef’s counter – though this is reserved exclusively for diners who have opted for the 10-course tasting menu. Otherwise, choose from the five- or eight-course options, which change monthly and showcase locally sourced seasonal and foraged produce. There’s also a three-course lunch on Thursdays and Fridays.

Meals always begin with the three 'Bs' (bread, butter and broth). After that, there might be a pair of garden-fresh, vegetable-based dishes such as zingy fresh courgette ribbons in a light, oily dressing, followed by a vibrant, properly seasoned tomato salad with whipped feta and a dressing incorporating nasturtium oil. For a £10 supplement, you could slip in an extra course of, say, lobster pappardelle ripieni with bouillabaisse and bronze fennel.

Main courses might bring an accomplished rendition of roast pork belly with celeriac purée and balsamic-glazed baby beetroot or perfectly cooked pollack paired with lovage-coated orzotto and a ‘lurid’ lovage sauce. We found the desserts rather underwhelming, although the blackcurrant ripple and apple sundae was pleasant enough. Warm, friendly staff are well-versed in the menu and are adept at formal touches such as napkin-folding. As for drinks, wine pairings are reasonably priced, making this a handy addition to the Tunbridge Wells restaurant scene.