The Bryntirion Inn

There has been great anticipation around the Selby brothers’ arrival at Palé Hall with the hope it will become Mid Wales’ answer to Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, where they previously worked with Raymond Blanc. An addendum to the main grounds, this 300-year-old roadside inn is more ordinary in its look and feel – the bar decorated with owner Tony Barney’s motoring memorabilia and a capacious dining room next door – but the cooking is among the best to come out of any pub kitchen in Wales. Fish and chips, bacon chops, steaks and pies define the appropriately relaxed line-up, but the finest ingredients from the estate (and beyond) dotted through the menu make it memorable. A delicate beetroot tart with thick, creamy Pant-Ys-Gawn goat's cheese and fresh-as-they-come baby greens from the kitchen garden was good enough to order twice, while the sausage rolls, made with organic pork from the Llyn Peninsula, come hot and dinky – the ideal companion for a pint of Magic Dragon. Picnic benches out front suit an alfresco lunch in fair weather, and six refurbished bedrooms offer simple but comfortable accommodation.

Images: Adam Stone/Jodi Hinds