Temaki

The name means handroll in Japanese, and this chic spot on Brixton’s Market Row is dedicated to the cone-like nori wraps stuffed with fish, vegetables and ‘golden’ uruchimai rice. Everyone sits at the long pale-wood counter while the chef fashions the various delicacies with theatrical precision; eating with the fingers is de rigueur. Sweet, fatty otoro and leaner akami tuna, crowned with tobiko (flying fish roe) is a winner, closely followed by lobster with egg yolk and citrus or ’exceptionally flavourful’ eel with cucumber and BBQ sauce. Also make room for a small plate of, say, trout tataki. Sake is the standout sip on the drinks list.