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Tamila King’s Cross

London, King's Cross - Indian - Restaurant - ££

South Indian gem worth missing the train for

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Though the South Indian street-food venue near Hackney Wick is now defunct, the latest in Prince Durairaj and Glen Leeson’s stable, which also includes Islington’s Tamil Prince and Tamil Crown, is a modern, lively and informal curry house not far from King's Cross station (there’s another branch in Clapham). It’s contemporary in its approach to Indian cookery, too, with the kitchen viewable to diners on the ground floor (there’s further seating in the cosy bar-basement) and a short menu of snacks, small plates and curries. Judging by the turnover of tables at our weekend lunch, it's clearly been taken to heart by the locals – so booking is advisable. Fresh ingredients and whole spices are the building blocks, and dishes celebrate the sweet astringency of South Indian cooking – perhaps a crisp tangle of fried baby sweetcorn with a sweet chilli chutney or pancake-shaped masala dosai to be dipped into a superb sambar (lentil stew). The traditions...

Though the South Indian street-food venue near Hackney Wick is now defunct, the latest in Prince Durairaj and Glen Leeson’s stable, which also includes Islington’s Tamil Prince and Tamil Crown, is a modern, lively and informal curry house not far from King's Cross station (there’s another branch in Clapham). It’s contemporary in its approach to Indian cookery, too, with the kitchen viewable to diners on the ground floor (there’s further seating in the cosy bar-basement) and a short menu of snacks, small plates and curries. Judging by the turnover of tables at our weekend lunch, it's clearly been taken to heart by the locals – so booking is advisable.

Fresh ingredients and whole spices are the building blocks, and dishes celebrate the sweet astringency of South Indian cooking – perhaps a crisp tangle of fried baby sweetcorn with a sweet chilli chutney or pancake-shaped masala dosai to be dipped into a superb sambar (lentil stew). The traditions of the classic British curry repertoire are also respected. Order the rich, creamy paneer butter masala with unmissable buttery, flaky roti – the undoubted star of the menu – then select the tandoori chicken with its pronounced smoky, charred flavour.

We really appreciated the warmly embracing style of service, with staff proffering good advice on food and drink. As regards the latter, a brief, spice-friendly selection of wines competes for attention with whizz-bang cocktails – we recommend the Tamil Negroni and the charcoal Old Fashioned; there's also Tamila lager on draught.

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VENUE DETAILS

8 Caledonian Road
King's Cross
N1 9DUGB

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OTHER INFORMATION

Counter seating, Family friendly

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