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Talbooth

Essex, Dedham - French - Restaurant - £££

Old-school riverside destination

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

The setting has been delighting diners since before Britain was quite done with post-war rationing, and could hardly be more of a tonic to the senses. Loyal locals and London escapees still flock to the outdoor terrace by the Stour for unhurried lunchtimes and light evenings. The Talbooth does things in the old-fashioned way, garnishing a tartlet of West Mersea crab with avocado, serving asparagus in season and carving rib of beef at the table. That doesn't preclude acknowledgements of traditions beyond the Anglo-French matrix, giving tuna the Japanese treatment with with wasabi crème fraîche, pickled cucumber and crispy nori, for example. At main course, halibut might be arrive coated in ‘nduja and served with tiger prawns and kale in beurre blanc, while venison loin appears with lightly curried pithiviers, mushroom purée, blackberry ketchup and gaufrette potatoes. Some have felt that the system can be unyielding, as when a request for a chicken dish w...

The setting has been delighting diners since before Britain was quite done with post-war rationing, and could hardly be more of a tonic to the senses. Loyal locals and London escapees still flock to the outdoor terrace by the Stour for unhurried lunchtimes and light evenings. The Talbooth does things in the old-fashioned way, garnishing a tartlet of West Mersea crab with avocado, serving asparagus in season and carving rib of beef at the table.

That doesn't preclude acknowledgements of traditions beyond the Anglo-French matrix, giving tuna the Japanese treatment with with wasabi crème fraîche, pickled cucumber and crispy nori, for example. At main course, halibut might be arrive coated in ‘nduja and served with tiger prawns and kale in beurre blanc, while venison loin appears with lightly curried pithiviers, mushroom purée, blackberry ketchup and gaufrette potatoes.

Some have felt that the system can be unyielding, as when a request for a chicken dish without garlic arrives simply denuded of its sauce, rather than with anything to replace it, or when the proffered petits fours are strictly off-limits to anyone who hasn't ordered coffee. Perhaps a steamed sponge pudding would help, one made with roasted figs, alongside butterscotch sauce and orange and cardamom ice cream. A good spread of wines by the glass opens a French-led list that's strong in the heartlands of Bordeaux and Burgundy.

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VENUE DETAILS

Gun Hill
Dedham
Essex
CO7 6HPGB

01206 323150

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OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Dog friendly, Deposit required

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