Simpson’s in the Strand, The Grand Divan

Simpson's has weathered the tsunamis of London's culinary fashion by sticking to its guns. Dating back to the late Georgian era, it moved to the Strand in 1904 and was a useful bolthole for theatrical types en route to Covent Garden. Its Grand Divan room proudly offered unreconstructed English cooking, roasts carved from trolleys and fortifying puddings in an ambience of clubby wood panelling and deeply upholstered seating. Now part of the Jeremy King portfolio, it is reborn, freshly minted as it were, the burgundy banquettes retained, the leather and velvet a textural dream, and the cooking still assiduously traditional. Watch in fascination, as though you have never seen it done, as a waiter slices generous servings of Devon beef rib, plating it up with Yorkshire pudding, roasties, root veg, horseradish and silky gravy. Meats are absolutely top-drawer, from the tenderest lamb chops to boiled ham in parsley sauce, and there are whole Dover soles for those with the surgical skills. Breakfasts are definitely worth setting the alarm for. Wine prices rapidly climb into the 'Good grief!' bracket, but they also have a solid selection of standard glasses.