Shwen Shwen

An elegant addition to Kent’s lively restaurant scene, Shwen Shwen (the name apparently means ‘fancy fancy’) is a celebration of Maria Bradford’s Sierra Leonean heritage and her feel for Afro-fusion cuisine. Daintily tucked away behind a sheltered courtyard terrace (great for alfresco meals), the place itself creates a real vibe with its warm terracotta tones, upholstery decorated with multi-coloured kpokpo fabrics and striking photos of Maria’s West African heritage. Dining takes place in two hospitable upstairs rooms with tightly packed tables, where personable staff are more than ready to guide customers through the intricacies of a menu peppered with unfamiliar ingredients.

Sophistication and comfort define the mood, while culinary exploration is the name of the game, from small sharing plates pointed-up with fonio (a West African ‘supergrain’) and kankankan (a smoky, aromatic spice blend) to a mille-feuille dessert involving moringa-leaf cream. Fixed-price lunches, early dinners and a £75 ‘chef’s choice’ taster provide a decent overview of the cooking, and it’s also worth taking a serious dive into the drinks list with its global tea menu, creative infusions, zingy cocktails and well-chosen international wines.