Royal China Baker Street

The gentrification of Chinese cooking in London was one of the significant developments of the 1980s and 90s. Diners didn't always want to be hurtled through a production-line process, but appreciated smart decor and brisk but friendly service – as well as food that had not been subjected to unnerving modernisation. The Royal China group was part of this wave, and now oversees a clutch of venues, from Chinatown to this elegant Marylebone address, serving vigorous Cantonese food on tables whirling sedately with laden lazy Susans. It would be hard to find better renditions of many of the classic dishes in London: crispy chicken is immensely satisfying, kung po king prawns and honey-roasted pork are difficult to resist as they circulate around the table, and the roast duck is tremendous. Start with a dim sum platter of steamed mixed seafood bites to set the taste buds up for what's to come. Chef's specials are always worth a look. Gather as large a group as you can together, and expect queues if you haven't booked.