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Roots

Dorset, Bournemouth - Modern European - Restaurant - ££££

Pint-sized bistro with gastronomic ambition

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Exceptional

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

The location in a little parade of shops in the Southbourne district of Bournemouth may lead you to expect a run-of-the-mill neighbourhood bistro, but Roots has rather loftier ambitions than that. Its pint-sized dimensions and simple-enough decor, with sea scenes on exposed brick walls, belie the wide-angle culinary lens of Jan Bretschneider. That's abundantly evident from the off, with a serving of sumptuously textured rye bread with various spreadable toppings – a fond wave to the proprietor's German heritage. To follow, expect a range of dishes that look distinctive, even occasionally bizarre, but that mobilise layers of flavour of unexpected subtlety and impact. Kombu potato with cream cheese in seaweed beurre blanc might precede a pairing of scallop and oxtail, powered up with horseradish and salsify in red wine dressing. Another successful twinning, of halibut and lobster, comes in massaman curry guise, full of the sweetness of carrot and passion fruit, while the principal...

The location in a little parade of shops in the Southbourne district of Bournemouth may lead you to expect a run-of-the-mill neighbourhood bistro, but Roots has rather loftier ambitions than that. Its pint-sized dimensions and simple-enough decor, with sea scenes on exposed brick walls, belie the wide-angle culinary lens of Jan Bretschneider. That's abundantly evident from the off, with a serving of sumptuously textured rye bread with various spreadable toppings – a fond wave to the proprietor's German heritage.

To follow, expect a range of dishes that look distinctive, even occasionally bizarre, but that mobilise layers of flavour of unexpected subtlety and impact. Kombu potato with cream cheese in seaweed beurre blanc might precede a pairing of scallop and oxtail, powered up with horseradish and salsify in red wine dressing. Another successful twinning, of halibut and lobster, comes in massaman curry guise, full of the sweetness of carrot and passion fruit, while the principal course on the taster could be as old-school as beef en croûte with parsnip in garlicky bourguignon.

Bretschneider's signature ‘jelly and ice cream’ finisher might well be scented with winter truffle and boozed up with Tokaji, but the superb cheese selection is worth saving a little capacity for too. A relatively compact wine list is served with enormous enthusiasm by one of the most engaging front-of-house managers on the whole South Coast.

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C Rocker

24 January 2025

Our wasabi-themed dinner was simply exquisite. The service was friendly, the food was exceptional, and the wine choices were very appropriate and delicious. We have visited before, and one thing that always strikes us is that even though the restaurant is small, you never feel too close to the other diners; it stays quiet and intimate. Overall, 10/10.

VENUE DETAILS

141 Belle Vue Road
Bournemouth
Dorset
BH6 3ENGB

01202 430005

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Credit card required, Deposit required

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