Pulpo Negro

‘I won’t let you over-order,’ declared the enthusiastic, knowledgeable waiter, who parked himself on a seat to take down our choice of tapas. Moderation isn’t easy here, given the enticing weekly changing selection, which is boosted by an impressive array of barbecued meats ­– from various cuts of wagyu or Hereford to pork solomillo. Owned by chef Andres Alemany and his wife Marie-Lou (front of house) for more than a decade, Pulpo Negro is a real find in the beautiful little market town of Alresford.

Behind its Georgian frontage, there’s a dark interior of bare floorboards, exposed brickwork and blackboards advertising the meats and the odd special (gazpacho on our visit). A soundtrack of insistent beats keeps things buzzing and casual, but the eye-catching action happens in the open kitchen towards the rear, where a young team produce dishes that deftly balance flavours, textures and colours.

A couple of snacks followed by five or six tapas is the recommended quantity for two. Highlights at our visit were ‘pregnant bread’ (five exquisitely light little empanadas filled with chorizo meat and topped with grated cheese and blossom honey); slippery charred peppers matched with flavour-packed Ortiz tuna sauce and crisp croûtons; a mouthwatering salad of summer legumes with tangy tarragon vinaigrette and crisp jamón; a classic disc of tortilla encasing a luscious, liquid, eggy interior; and precisely cooked, harissa-spiced octopus with chickpeas, surrounded by a creamy tahini dip. To finish, burnt Catalan cream with rum sponge, though well-executed, was prosaic by comparison.

Wines are another forte, with the well-chosen (mostly) Spanish list bolstered by a fine choice of sherries and cocktails. Pulpo Negro’s legions of admirers have been wowed by the cooking (‘just fabulous’), the staff (‘they really care about the food they bring to you’) and the ambience, which is ‘chic and cool, but also warm and welcoming’.