Porth Tocyn

‘Quality, service, location… it has it all,’ exclaimed a devotee of Porth Tocyn – an enduring family affair and an easy-to-like Guide stalwart for more than six decades. The next generation, Henry Fletcher-Brewer and wife Kelly, understand hospitality as acutely as the rest of the clan, and are gradually chucking out the chintz as this much-loved hotel takes on a more tasteful contemporary look. Drinks are served amid gleaming dark wood and fresh soft furnishings, with stormy landscapes telling of rough seas; the dining room is simple and expansive, looking over well-established coastal gardens.

At lunchtime, a country house spirit pervades the menu – think moules marinière, steak sandwiches and grilled fish, plus a beautifully presented roast on Sundays. The seasonally attuned dinner menu has also earned plaudits from readers: ‘impressively large’ pan-seared scallops with chorizo, cauliflower purée, roe fritter and a herby passion-fruit dressing might give way to moist and tender venison loin, guinea fowl presented two ways or rack of Welsh lamb with a mini shepherd’s pie, creamed leeks, roast carrot and mint jus.

Palate-cleansing sorbets do their job, while desserts could range from Eton mess or rhubarb crumble with cream to an unusual tonka-bean posset. The kitchen works hard to please (the souvenirs on sale are jars of homemade marmalade), and eminently courteous staff are always affable and eager to help. A very respectable wine list keeps its mark-ups in check.