Plates

A decade ago, Kirk Haworth, a chef with The French Laundry, Restaurant Sat Bains and The Square in his DNA, was diagnosed with Lyme disease. His subsequent adoption of a plant-based diet in pursuit of better health has resulted in this tiny, unassuming but highly conceptualised vegetarian restaurant on a gritty stretch of Old Street. Haworth’s vision here is an entirely personal one, and as his style leans heavily towards pricey, high-aspiration fine dining, it’s not for everyone.

Opinions are mixed. Reporters have noted a lack of balance in some dishes. Isle of Wight tomatoes, for example, layered with house ricotta and strawberry, is a tangle of flavours, though arguably it does not need its finishing touch of frozen tarragon granita, or the accompanying barbecued tomato broth which, while punchy and full flavoured, belongs to an entirely different dish. But when on form, the kitchen fully exploits contrasting flavours and textures. There are good reports of the BBQ maitaki mushroom with a deep, earthy mushroom purée, heft from spicy kimchi and crunch from crispy wild rice, and for a mung bean and urad dhal lasagne with ‘the richest beautiful miso sauce’. Praise, too, for the house-made sourdough roll ‘flaky and crispy with a croissant-like texture’ and for a dessert of rice-pudding ice cream with chewy beets, mulberries and olive oil.

The whole operation is run with a friendly routine, but the Achilles heel is pace – the regularly changing seven/eight-course taster can ramble on for several hours. Wines are well chosen to complement the food, whether you opt for a pairing (non-alcoholic, too) or something from the interesting by-the-glass selection. The cocktail list is also worth getting stuck into.