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Pea Porridge

Suffolk, Bury St Edmunds - Modern British - Restaurant - £££

Bastion of Moorish-inspired cuisine in genteel Suffolk

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

Can it really be as long ago as 2009 when Pea Porridge first opened? Its name derives from the patch of green that preceded the present-day square in the centre of Bury St Edmunds, and Moorish-inspired cuisine is its game. There is an on-trend, stripped-down look to the interior, with a naked brickwork backdrop across three conjoined rooms that are reliably abuzz with excited custom. First off, everybody mentions the superb breads, which are not to be missed on any account, and come in very handy for dredging through appetiser servings of taramasalata or kashke bademjan (a garlicky, nutty Persian aubergine dip). From there, it's on to an extensive range of gently spiced, fragrant, often fruity dishes that are capably explained by staff. Muntjac kofte with tzatziki, blistered peppers, molasses and zaatar is a robustly satisfying starter, or for something lighter, look to a tempura-battered courgette flower with aged feta, beetroot borani and dukkah. The popular main-course choice for a...

Can it really be as long ago as 2009 when Pea Porridge first opened? Its name derives from the patch of green that preceded the present-day square in the centre of Bury St Edmunds, and Moorish-inspired cuisine is its game. There is an on-trend, stripped-down look to the interior, with a naked brickwork backdrop across three conjoined rooms that are reliably abuzz with excited custom.

First off, everybody mentions the superb breads, which are not to be missed on any account, and come in very handy for dredging through appetiser servings of taramasalata or kashke bademjan (a garlicky, nutty Persian aubergine dip). From there, it's on to an extensive range of gently spiced, fragrant, often fruity dishes that are capably explained by staff. Muntjac kofte with tzatziki, blistered peppers, molasses and zaatar is a robustly satisfying starter, or for something lighter, look to a tempura-battered courgette flower with aged feta, beetroot borani and dukkah. The popular main-course choice for a hungry couple to share is Moroccan tagine, made with spiced kid goat, although dishes from the Grizzly charcoal oven are hard to resist, such as pluma Ibérica pork with peperonata, crispy chickpeas, baked figs and mojo verde.

This is hearty, sustaining food that pushes all the taste buttons, right down to the burnt Basque cheesecake garnished with kataifi pastry and rose petals, or cheeses served with Greek mountain honeycomb and frozen Muscat grapes. Look to the eastern Mediterranean and the Caucasus for some of the most interesting, and regionally unimpeachable, choices from the wine list.

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VENUE DETAILS

28-29 Cannon Street
Bury St Edmunds
Suffolk
IP33 1JRGB

01284 700200

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