Panella

The Brutalist Trellick Tower is an unlikely spot in which to find a homely little Sicilian restaurant where ‘design’ seems a forgotten (and irrelevant) word. Panella is a random accumulation of junk shop, house clearance, quirky objets d'art and clutter but the cooking is honest and generous, while the welcome and hubbub immediately transport you to the Palermo area. The daily menu might range from swordfish with cherry tomatoes or chicken with lemon and olives to an exceptional parmigiana that restores your faith in this generally abused dish. Seasonality is a given: a summer side of artichokes, broad beans and peas looked authentically drab but tasted genuinely delicious. And individual cassata pastries (imported from Sicily) were the real deal too. No bookings.