New Wave Brasserie

In contrast to its traditional Cotswold frontage, this refreshingly informal enterprise deserves plaudits for its modern approach to fish cookery. The pleasing interior (stone-tiled flooring, bare stone walls decorated with maritime-themed artworks) is a serene spot where dressed-down regulars are greeted like old friends by the accommodating staff, and Bob Marley might be on the sound system. There’s also alfresco seating in the back yard and an extra room for overspill. As a bonus, a fresh fish stall is set up in the passageway alongside the restaurant every Friday. 

The menu changes with the market, but fresh oysters are usually up for grabs, the fish soup is a well-regarded fixture, and there’s a bargain, limited-choice set lunch (Wed-Fri) where the main course might be mussels with pancetta and cider cream. Cured meats and steak are the only non-marine alternatives. Prices are refreshing too, especially as main courses include a serving of vegetables (our red mullet comprised two immaculate fillets cooked to perfection in a buttery sauce of mussels and capers alongside a side dish of Cornish potatoes, broccoli and spring cabbage). This was preceded by a generous portion of ultra-fresh tuna sashimi and crispy noodles, somewhat overwhelmed by a strongly fishy nam jim jeaw Thai dressing. 

Desserts, however, are right on the money: our firm but wobbly panna cotta was sublimely matched with a rich and tangy kirsch/cherry compôte and amaretti crumb. Wines on the Old World-accented list are well-priced too, with whites unsurprisingly to the fore. Also look out for regular 'Super Sundays' featuring festive paellas, fruits de mer and suchlike. ‘Lucky locals,’ commented one reporter.