Matsudai Ramen

James Chant started Matsudai as a pop-up and began selling highly popular ramen kits (still available) during the pandemic, before moving into this former Grangetown bank in 2022. The large, back-to-basics premises, dominated by a stainless-steel open kitchen, soon fills with a modish crowd slurping top-notch al dente noodles. Most sit at communal tables or at the counter. Vegan alternatives are available, but it’s the tonkotsu ramen in various guises that’s the draw: rich, profoundly flavourful pork-bone broth, with thin slices of tender pork loin and soft-boiled egg providing back-up. It’s also worth trying the delicate 'small plates': perhaps chopped scallop adorned with creamy yuzu mayo. Drinks include Japanese whiskies, sake and Asahi beer, but sadly no tea. Cards only.