Lupa

That actor and Highbury local Theo James has a hand in this bijou take on a Roman osteria is beside the point; its true star is Milanese Bengali head chef Naz Hassan whose instinctive talent and obsessive attention to detail defies the apparent simplicity on the plate. Given the neighbourhood proportions and ironclad local reputation, bookings are hard to come by – though one table is always held back for walk-ins. Don’t miss the bucatini all’amatriciana or the tiramisu.