Lilibet’s

A century after the birth of the late Queen Elizabeth II, a luxurious seafood restaurant named after her, and loosely inspired by her, has opened at the Mayfair address where she was born in 1926. The original townhouse is long gone, but Australian chef-restaurateur Ross Shonhan (Nobu, Bone Daddies) has conjured a home worthy of a young royal – all chintz, ruffles, florals and plenty of pictures of dogs. It's camp but as cosy, comfortable and cosseting as a Sunday at Sandringham.

Shonhan's menu seeks to please and amuse his imagined young princess with dainty anchovy éclairs, sugary princess cake, and mashed potato lavished with lobster bisque – dishes that this lowborn reporter found among the least interesting on a surprisingly high-minded menu. Shonhan and head chef Alex Harper (the Harwood Arms, The Ledbury, Le Manoir) know their seafood, and skilfully balance old Mayfair tastes (Dover sole with Café de Paris butter) with new ideas (red prawn carpaccio and lobster rolls), while opening a conversation about sustainability. Hake head, garfish and fluke count as unsung heroes, while 'triptychs' serve the whole fish, tail to gill, in three courses: raw, grilled and in a soup.

Alternatives to fish abound, including delicate agnolotti filled with lemony ricotta, ribeye steaks and chicken milanese. As for desserts, expect luxurious old-school classics, from daily tarts and crêpes Suzette to chocolate mousse and strawberry cheesecake. For those wishing to dip only a toe in the water, the set lunch is good value at £34 for three courses. The cheapest wine, however, is £55.