Kala
Manchester, Greater Manchester
Known across the north as a neighbourhood pioneer, chef-owner Gary Usher proves that he can do 'city bistro' too. Kala is good-looking without being showy, the gold and glass frontage giving way to a bar counter with mezzanine and open kitchen above. Usher's style is the best kind of flavour-forward, with menus that haunt the dreams, and servings of truffle/Parmesan chips that will likely haunt the chef for the rest of his career. A formal set menu, very reasonably priced and riddled with choice across two or three courses, might feature starters of lamb fat-infused potato terrine with crispy lamb breast, poached egg and harissa mayonnaise or earthy and sharp miso-glazed swede with chicory and Granny Smith apple. A main course could be cod loin with Vadouvan curry butter, braised leeks (with apple dressing), potato puffs and mussel cream sauce, while the simpler bistro menu (available most sessions) majors on more straightforward but compelling combos such as brown crab and Cheddar tart with kale and chervil salad. Puddings, including honeycomb ice cream with dark chocolate sauce and a wedge of honeycomb, are a done deal from the outset. Good-value wines from £23.
Dining Information:
Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Credit card required
55 King Street, Manchester, Greater Manchester M2 4LQ
0161 839 3030
