Hermitage Rd

Soaring ceilings, monumental windows, enormous light fittings, exposed brick and industrial ducting set the cool, idiosyncratic scene at this modern first-floor bar-restaurant. Now in its second decade, Hermitage Rd has worn in and warmed up very nicely and is even more popular than ever – nicely buzzing on the midweek evening we were in. The food is as cosmopolitan as the surroundings, the open kitchen’s modern brasserie style playing to the gallery with its something-for-everyone approach.

The menu proudly identifies and name-checks the source of its produce – Maldon rock oysters, Cromer crab, Staithe Smokehouse salmon – and there’s a tempting array of meats centred around a wood-fired oven, including a variety of Scottish heritage steaks and tender Cornish lamb chops. The stars of our meal ranged from a plate of salt-baked heritage beetroot tossed with Old Winchester cheese, walnuts and sherry vinegar, via nuggets of Korean chicken with crispy noodles, spring onions, chilli and yuzu mayo to a juicy Priors Hall Farm pork chop with apple and Calvados ketchup. A soft, pillowy floating island in crème anglaise was the perfect way to finish.

Drinks provide admirable back-up – expect everything from classic cocktails and beers to a far-reaching, reasonably priced wine list with an excellent choice by the glass.