Heathcock

From its sociable bar to ‘the best beer garden in Cardiff’, the Heathcock majors in laid-back sophistication: expect simple white walls, reclaimed furniture, a decent selection of guest ales and ‘really engaging staff’. Informality reigns and, for all its rustic edges, the food is intelligent and considered. A chunky sourdough doorstep, say, quilted with the cheesiest, beeriest Welsh rarebit you could wish for, plus a bottle of Worcestershire sauce on the side. The chef has been spotted foraging for local wild garlic in season, and the menu also trumpets native ingredients, from Car-Y-Mor cockles, mussels, leeks and sobrasada on sourdough to baked plaice with white wine, celeriac, laverbread and salsify, or beef, oyster mushroom, pickled walnut and Perl Las cheese pie. This is essentially a small-plates menu, so we’d suggest trying at least three dishes each – and be sure to order dessert: the buttermilk pudding with honeycomb and seasonal fruits went down a treat with one visitor. The European wine list offers plenty by the glass. There’s also a ‘cocktail and nibbles’ bar upstairs (don’t miss the home-cured charcuterie).