Fish Union

Originating as a pop-up fishmonger during the pandemic, Fish Union sees chefs Richard Kirkwood and Andy Roberts (formerly of London's Wright Brothers and J Sheekey) showing off their expertise in a more suburban setting. The dining room was full of energy during our Friday evening visit, with enough buzz to rival a Soho joint – and the deft service fully lived up to readers' praise. 

Our hot seafood platter was an assortment of succulent shellfish covering pretty much all bases, with half a lobster, tiger prawns, Rockefeller oysters and scallops. The latter were a standout, buttery and melt-in-the-mouth, subtly sweet and delicately charred for a hint of smokiness. The house 'chips' are actually ingots of super-thin layered potato – salty, comforting and shatteringly crispy, while a side order of grilled hispi cabbage with sriracha and aïioli added a pleasant touch of bitterness and vegetal edge. Wheels are not being reinvented here, but the cooking is unfussy, coherent and delicious,

'Afters' can feel a bit like an afterthought, although the Eton mess offered up a smile-inducing, nostalgic display of super-sweet early Kentish strawberries. The compact wine list is not exactly an oenophile’s playground, but there is a decent geographical spread and something to suit most palates and preferences. The cocktail list plays it safe with the classics.