Eel Sushi

It's no coincidence that Eel Sushi sits directly opposite Dorian, since both are owned by restaurateur Chris D’Sylva. Simply decked out in pinewood and with just 12 seats, it reminded us of similar establishments dotted around Tokyo. And we liked the fact that it goes against the grain when it comes to cost – prices here are definitely not as severe as some of the more recent omakase establishments in London.

We sat at the counter (under a display of Manga toys), which allowed us to chat to the chefs – Nick Xie (ex-Dinings) and Jon Sho (ex-Umu). To begin, there was a miso soup of enoki and shimeji mushrooms packed with umami. This was followed by a sashimi selection including thick cuts of hamachi, although the star was the beautifully fatty and silky otoro.

Top picks from the choice of nigri were a soft, creamy scallop, along with 'bouncy' lobster and superb cuts of tuna (lean akami, chutoro and fatty otoro). The fish was exemplary and it was partnered by sushi rice at the correct temperature. In the tradition of classic sushi bars, the emphasis is emphatically on raw seafood – there are no desserts and the only optional extras are tins of N25 oscietra caviar. To drink, D'Sylva has put together a concise yet intriguing wine list (from £50), including glasses from £11. You can also order from Dorian's extensive restaurant list, which promises high-end drinking from around the globe.