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Damson

Berkshire, Winterbourne - Modern British - Restaurant - £££

Serious seasonal cooking in a swish converted pub

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

Opened in September 2023 in a renovated former village pub, Damson is already bearing fruit. Behind the mock-Tudor exterior, the sparklingly modern open kitchen takes centre stage – a calm space where the team of chefs, headed by Henry Kremer-Ireson (who includes the nearby Woodspeen on his CV), exudes earnest professionalism. It’s swish here, but not intimidatingly so, with the casual congregation of moneyed diners seated at unadorned wooden tables, and the relaxed vibe accentuated by plain grey flooring, dark-green walls and a background soundtrack of cool beats. Behind the stoves, serious talent is married with a principled adherence to what is local and seasonal, all tempered by an admirable lightness of touch. Even the three-course dinner menu (there’s also a seven-course taster) gives ample evidence of this – from an exquisitely delicate appetiser of leek and chicory tartlet to exemplary canelés (chewy and custardy in all the right places). In betw...

Opened in September 2023 in a renovated former village pub, Damson is already bearing fruit. Behind the mock-Tudor exterior, the sparklingly modern open kitchen takes centre stage – a calm space where the team of chefs, headed by Henry Kremer-Ireson (who includes the nearby Woodspeen on his CV), exudes earnest professionalism. It’s swish here, but not intimidatingly so, with the casual congregation of moneyed diners seated at unadorned wooden tables, and the relaxed vibe accentuated by plain grey flooring, dark-green walls and a background soundtrack of cool beats.

Behind the stoves, serious talent is married with a principled adherence to what is local and seasonal, all tempered by an admirable lightness of touch. Even the three-course dinner menu (there’s also a seven-course taster) gives ample evidence of this – from an exquisitely delicate appetiser of leek and chicory tartlet to exemplary canelés (chewy and custardy in all the right places). In between, there might be robustly flavoured mallard 'ham' offset by roast hazelnuts and fresh chicory, followed by a lovely piece of translucent cod with mussels and puréed cauliflower, bathed in a creamy, salty sauce of mussels and All Angels wine (a sparkler from West Berkshire). 

Other high points from our visit ranged from a smooth potato custard with barely cooked asparagus (grown in Devon polytunnels, we were told) and slices of truffle to juicy chunks of venison with wild garlic, hispi cabbage (seared just so) and damson ketchup (think classy HP sauce). Not wanting to be carb-free, we ordered some dauphinois potatoes on the side, which proved to be a luxurious treat. Desserts also maintained the kitchen's high standards, from chocolate mousse topped with hazelnuts and buttermilk ice cream (a delicious indulgence) to panna cotta with tender chunks of rhubarb (an early spring delight). 

Yes, emphasising seasonality can limit ingredients in the ‘hungry season’ at the start of the year – wild garlic and chicory were much in evidence during our March visit – but Kremer-Ireson's inventiveness usually overcomes such hurdles. Drinks (with the accent on locality) and service (knowledgeable and keen) add to the allure. In all, Damson is a plum restaurant.

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VENUE DETAILS

Winterbourne
Berkshire
RG20 8BBGB

01635 248368

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Wheelchair access, Parking, Credit card required

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