Cru

Occupying a basement in a residential area of Eastbourne, this easy-going restaurant doubles as a wine shop – so expect an extensive international list with lots of interest, including an impressive selection of hand-picked finds, some excellent Sussex options and plenty by the glass. The setting is broadly smart-casual: wood floors, standard-issue brasserie-style tables and chairs, dark blue banquettes. The menu is equally accommodating, catering for all comers with a mix of tapas-style small plates and classics such as battered fish of the day or steak and chips (the beef is dry-aged in-house). While dishes are mostly familiar favourites, the execution is far from average: a ‘small plate’ of croquettes (tomatillo and fresh chilli salsa) proved to be really big beauties, perfectly crisp on the outside, with a sensational, unctuous potato and melting cheese filling. Onion rings are similarly supersized, sporting light-as air batter and a dusting of truffle. The dry-aged steak tacos are perfect too – great quality meat, cooked pink and served with chipotle mayo. Bigger dishes such as half a lobster with thermidor butter and crispy, fluffy fries are also a delight, while dessert might bring lemon posset, churros or affogato (perfect quantities of top-notch coffee and dense, creamy vanilla ice cream). With knowledgeable, genuinely friendly service as part of the package, Cru is a near-perfect neighbourhood offering.