Church House Inn

Motorists beware! Approaching this ancient inn by Fore Street should be attempted by small vehicles only, so narrow is the old passageway between St Andrew’s lichen-covered churchyard walls and the pub that has serviced the parish for the best part of 700 years. But to make it there (by whatever means) is to be ensconced in the sleepy, storied spirit of Harberton – barely 10 minutes from Totnes, but in a world of its own.

To welcome you into the dark wood-panelled and beamed room, lit by flickering tapered candles, is chef Tim Blanchard who will make it dazzlingly worth your while. The St John alumnus, with south Devon’s fertile larder at his fingertips, is producing some of the finest pub-style cooking found anywhere. 

Our lunch kicked off with a starter of potted duck and charred sourdough from favoured Buckfastleigh bakery Hylsten, ahead of unbeatably flavoursome grilled lamb chops paired with anchovy-spiked chard. A smashed-patty cheeseburger was a populist triumph and, with chips included, is a great value sub-£20 meal. Just don’t skimp on the homemade mint choc-chip ice cream, served in a retro coupe. 

A pool table, quizzes captained by the pub's previous owner, and well-kept beers maintain the spirit of a proper watering hole. Sunday lunches are single-sitting feasts featuring anything from roast porchetta and pig's head to confit duck with treviso, bread sauce and crab apple jelly. The wine list opens at a friendly £25 with a small by-the-glass selection, while service is warm and efficient.