Chin-Zano

Livia Alarcon has cooked up a reputation and a half for herself around Liverpool, and on the BBC's Great British Menu, making culinary tidal waves that belie her tender years. Her latest bolthole is an old brick archway near where the Tate & Lyle sugar refinery used to stand. A booming industrial space with a raised kitchen across the back, it plays host to broadly Italian cooking with overlays of Iberia and a little Japanese seasoning – so the likes of Padrón peppers with Italian togarashi need not raise eyebrows. The classic things are done with great panache, from fully loaded pizzette, their outer rings puffed up like choux, to freshly turned pasta. Something as classic as tagliolini with brown crab, lemon, tarragon, garlic and chilli offers a world of savoury satisfaction. The signature nibble is a coupe of deep-fried olives in deep brown crumb, to be dipped in basil mayo – a highly welcome reviver after 'a night before'. Wines on a high-turnover list are well chosen. We'd appreciate a few more by the glass, and maybe turn the music down a touch, but this is another Alarcon Liverpool landmark.