Chez Dominique

This admirable neighbourhood bistro offers astute, seasonal Anglo-French cooking (with a few modern global influences) at affordable prices – the prix-fixe lunch, in particular, offers exceptional value. It’s a low-key, bijou, warm-hearted kind of place, squeezed into the ground floor of a Georgian terrace not far from Pulteney Bridge, with a small private room overlooking the river at the back. Affable service has a quiet confidence that comes from knowing what they’re serving is good, from scallops with kimchi to onglet steak with Café de Paris butter. Our openers ranged from fried polenta on a bed of deeply flavoured wild garlic purée with tapenade and Parmesan to crisp buttermilk quail accompanied by kohlrabi coleslaw and pear ketchup. To follow, sea bream arrived with just-squeaky green beans dressed with a delicate lovage sauce, while a pork chop was served with apple, roast garlic and Calvados sauce. For dessert, poached rhubarb with whipped mascarpone and vanilla crumb brought things to a close. The mainly French wine list provides plenty of affordable drinking, but there are a few pricier options for those who want to push the boat out.