Search the Good Food Guide - Site Settings site

Location

Establishment Type

Cuisine

Price

Clear
New Review
  View all 4 photos
  /4
X

Brunswick House

London, Vauxhall - Modern British - Restaurant - £££

Creative brasserie food in a gloriously preserved 18th-century townhouse

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

Brunswick House was one of the glories of Vauxhall when it was extended lavishly in the mid-18th century, but its fate was to be hewn in two. One half ended up headquartering the gasworks and then the local railway company, while the other was acquired by the Duke of Brunswick. It is here, amid chequerboard floors, battalions of chandeliers and luxurious drapes, that a combined restaurant, café and cocktail bar operation has sprung forth, with an outdoor terrace for taking the Vauxhall air. The main dining room can feel a touch draughty on a winter's night, but hang tough, because here comes Jackson Boxer with some contemporary brasserie cooking that adds gloss to an already lustrous scene. The smash hit among the nibbles is his hash brown piped with duck liver parfait and topped with sliced kumquat. Togarashi-spiced Brixham squid with charred white cabbage makes a case for itself among the starters (apart from its jarring dollop of English mustard), or there might be on-trend ...

Brunswick House was one of the glories of Vauxhall when it was extended lavishly in the mid-18th century, but its fate was to be hewn in two. One half ended up headquartering the gasworks and then the local railway company, while the other was acquired by the Duke of Brunswick. It is here, amid chequerboard floors, battalions of chandeliers and luxurious drapes, that a combined restaurant, café and cocktail bar operation has sprung forth, with an outdoor terrace for taking the Vauxhall air. The main dining room can feel a touch draughty on a winter's night, but hang tough, because here comes Jackson Boxer with some contemporary brasserie cooking that adds gloss to an already lustrous scene.

The smash hit among the nibbles is his hash brown piped with duck liver parfait and topped with sliced kumquat. Togarashi-spiced Brixham squid with charred white cabbage makes a case for itself among the starters (apart from its jarring dollop of English mustard), or there might be on-trend crudo of chalk stream trout sharpened with green apple and sorrel. For main course, the likes of Tamworth pork chop with rhubarb or cod in saffron broth with broccoli, aim to keep taste buds firing, but the most dynamic action is in the sharing dishes. Our spatchcocked chicken had been roasted to retain its moistness from leg to wing to breast, and came with accompaniments of salty clams, Brazilian-style moqueca broth and discreet jalapeño pistou, all topped with a herbaceous border's worth of mint and coriander – a roaring success.

At the end, there could be riz au lait with rhubarb and pistachio, or a wodge of walnut and coffee cake in a sabayon of Pedro Ximénez. Wines look as though they are doing their best to live up to the surroundings, with fairly ferocious mark-ups. A short slate of 'special pours by the glass' could be worth considering, if you've a yen for old Gevrey, middle-aged Austrian Riesling or spanking-new Oxfordshire fizz.

Read full reviewSee less

VENUE DETAILS

30 Wandsworth Road
Vauxhall
SW8 2LGGB

020 7720 2926

View opening times

Make a reservation

OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Family friendly

More like this

    •  

       

       

    •  

       

       

    •  

       

       

    Latest articles