Bouchon Bistrot

A friendly welcome settles you into a comfy dining room combining classic decor, Art Nouveau prints and Pernod paraphernalia with some contemporary furnishings, but that's where the sleek modernity ends. In the kitchen, it's all about delivering time-honoured bistro staples, which means French onion soup sopping up into garlic croûtons, escargots brimming with garlic butter, and soufflés so light and breezy they would waft away if they weren’t anchored by their pool of rich Comté sauce.

Main courses are reliably hearty: confit duck leg with gratin dauphinois is a favourite with reporters, likewise braised rabbit leg with morels and juicy slices of roast chicken breast on a bed of potatoes and oyster mushrooms sautéed to a fudge-like softness with a slick of tarragon sauce. Some lighter options, such as smoked salmon with tomato and cucumber salad, are available on the well-priced prix-fixe in the afternoon and early evening.

In the warmer months, it's worth taking desserts such as the ever-popular tarte tatin or cannelé bordelais with hazelnut ice cream and salted caramel on the new roof terrace, while surveying the picturesque prospect of Hexham all around. To drink, consider a glass or two from their concise, French-led wine list (prices start at £8).