Bottega Caruso

Endearingly popular, Simona Di Dio and Harry Ryder’s determinedly low-key restaurant has become an established fixture on the Margate dining scene. An atmosphere of warm informality is matched by homespun southern Italian cooking inspired by Simona’s family recipes from Foglianise in Campania, which provides some produce for the kitchen (the rest comes courtesy of a carefully nurtured network of local suppliers).

The menu structure allows for nibbling as much as three-coursing it. At our most recent visit, we chose from a selection of small plates including a summery citrus-marinated trout with fried courgettes tossed in mint and vinegar, as well as a couple of cibo povero dishes that are never off the menu – namely grandma’s recipe for verdura e fagioli (greens and beans) and the delicious polpette di pane al sugo (sourdough bread balls, eggs and herbs cooked in tomato sauce). A small bowl of pickled vegetables was a perfect accompaniment.

There’s fresh pasta, as you’d expect, made each day with a blend of Italian semolina and organic flour from Nonington Farm in Canterbury. Look out for the likes of spaghetti with sea bass, cherry tomatoes, fennel seeds, lemon and toasted breadcrumbs, or ziti with pork sausage and 'nduja. Among the choice of desserts, the light tiramisu makes an indulgent finale.

The list of predominantly organic, biodynamic and natural wines heralds some of the best producers in Italy, and staff give good advice to those less familiar with low-intervention viticulture. Don’t forget to stock up on artisan Italian provisions at La Cantina, the restaurant’s deli a few doors down