Another Hand
Manchester, Greater Manchester
Entry
On the Mews Level of the Great Northern development, Another Hand looks exactly like we expect today's city-centre restaurant to look: bare brick walls, plenty of light wood, an open kitchen at the back, shelves of bottles, abstract art. What's more, its menu of veg-oriented sharing plates provisioned by northwestern suppliers has plenty of supporters. Here's why. 'The dishes are so inventive in terms of flavour and texture, but without pretension,' explains a fan, going on to cite a juxtaposition of bitter chicory with chestnut purée, the 'lion's mane' mushroom steak with chocolate mole, and the array of piquant pickles on flatbread. 'The staff are lovely, and the wine is heaven' – although it could as easily be the other way round. There is certainly culinary energy to burn in spry combinations such as smoked beetroot with horseradish, pickled mustard seeds, preserved blackberries and 'charcoal cream', or the adventurous partnering of Shetland scallops with curried carrot, burnt orange and lemon verbena – an exercise in colour collision worthy of Matisse. Meat dishes are equally energetic – an expertly rendered pork chop teamed with Crown Prince pumpkin and rhubarb, all textured with puffed grains, for example. Finish home-style with bergamot and lemon cheesecake with white chocolate, cornflake crunch and 'old-fashioned lemonade'. If skin-contact wines are your thing, there are some interesting experiments here (note the French Gewürztraminer and Argentinian Torrontes), but the regular selections inspire confidence too. Don't flinch at a potion called Succulent Blood, a cocktail blend of mezcal with blood orange, lime and cinnamon. We wouldn't be surprised to hear that Manchester runs on it.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Counter seating, Credit card required
Unit F, 253 Deansgate, Manchester, Greater Manchester M3 4EN
0161 834 2988
