Almanac

Although the restaurant itself had to undertake a hasty rebrand not long before opening, the significant name at Almanac is that of chef-proprietor Luke Payne, established five miles down the road at his Pack Horse pub in Hayfield. Here in Glossop, he's built a positive, capable team with a palpable enthusiasm for feeding people well, while cutting no corners. Above a cosy bar, behind café curtains, a simple dining room serves umami-rich British dishes laced with thoughtfulness and great technique.

There'll be no legal action over the trade description of 'orbs of joy', Roscoff onions braised in velvety chicken broth until the middles are slippery and tender. Another small (although really not that small) plate of mutton merguez with pease pudding and chermoula is balanced as well as toweringly meaty, rich and spiced – the nubbly pease pudding a lesson in making alternative starches a trick worth turning. Skate forestière, one of several generous main courses, is lifted by a touch of dashi in a herb-flecked mushroom sauce of compelling, spoonable richness.

Autumn colour continues with an enviably set custard tart in nutty wholemeal pastry, the fine and the rough sitting beautifully together. The choice of wine under £50 aligns happily with the appeal of the food, making Almanac quite the package, at any price.