Alleria

Behind its sunshine-yellow frontage at the top end of the High Street, Alleria brings real Italian verismo to the business of constructing pizzas that you won't forget in a hurry. Paper-thin in the centre, with risen, puffy, blackened perimeters, they are daubed with fantastic San Marzano passata, creamy mozzarella, and whatever else you can handle. We tried the Dude, a hulking convocation of 'nduja, diced chorizo, pungent Gorgonzola and searing red chilli under an enormous clump of rocket. Heaven. Or try the Vivaldi, with ham, artichokes, mushrooms and olives. Nibble a few marinated anchovies while you wait, and round off with tiramisu or affogato. A tiny drinks list includes a more than passable IGT red from Campania.