Adam Reid at The French
Manchester, Greater Manchester
Embedded in Manchester’s vintage Midland Hotel, the legendary 'French' is steering a steady, unerring course with local lad (and Simon Rogan alumnus) Adam Reid at the helm. The grand dining room has been given a post-pandemic refurb, otherwise it's business as usual: ‘It is always a special occasion to eat here, even if it’s not an actual special occasion.' One of the city’s best front-of-house teams takes care of the wine and the welcome (both top-drawer), while affable chefs bring out the dishes and explain what’s what. Currently, there’s just one ‘skilfully conceived’ menu divided up into themed segments, with reimagined frugal necessities from the North Country larder often at the heart of Reid’s high-spec contemporary assemblages. Thick slices of rich, dark malt sourdough slathered with beefy butter, plus a sip or two of deeply resonant onion broth more than justify the heading ‘A warm Northern welcome’, while ‘Little bits of something fancy’ means snacky bits – from a single-bite fish pie topped with fish roe to a ritzy Lancashire cheese and cracker sandwich. Next comes ‘Yesterday’s dinner’, a take on family leftovers that’s guaranteed to ‘raise a smile’. After that, it’s all about 'Today’s tea’, a succession of highly accomplished dishes designed to show off Reid’s sure touch and love of native ingredients: the ‘Cornish catch of the day’ might be perfectly timed, crisp-skinned John Dory cleverly dressed with a 'tangy' pickled elderflower hollandaise, while fillet of Welsh fallow deer is enhanced by the earthy sweetness of beetroot and some crispy cavolo nero. For ‘afters’, there's always a regional artisan cheese to celebrate, ahead of desserts including Reid’s famous tipsy cake, cut and plated at the table with whipped cream and an extra drizzle of rum – plus a glass of flavoursome cold tea on the side. Unusual wine flights are chosen with exemplary care by a sommelier ‘at the top of his game’.
Dining Information:
Accommodation, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Credit card required
The Midland, 16 Peter Street, Manchester, Greater Manchester M60 2DS
0161 235 4780
