1861

Out in Cross Ash, to the northeast of Abergavenny, amid the majestic undulations of Monmouthshire, 1861 is a rural retreat and then some. The beamed dining room feels a little snug to some, but is undeniably atmospheric, and the front-of-house, led by Kate King, is a model of exemplary hospitality. Simon King cooks a menu of locally sourced country cuisine, with Kate's dad providing some of the home-grown produce. To start, truffled goat's cheese might be combined with pickled baby beetroot, while gentle alcohol-based saucing brings out the inherent qualities of main-course stars – Champagne and chive cream for a hake fillet, red wine and rosemary for a braised lamb shank. There is nothing earth-shaking about the cooking, but sometimes the earth doesn't need shaking, and those intent on sampling the range can opt for a six- or seven-course taster that might centre on two cuts of duck in passion fruit sauce. Sweet treats have included a pre-orderable pineapple tarte tatin. Wines start at £24. The restaurant now has six en-suite rooms for those wanting to stay over.