Interviews

Five minutes with Hrishikesh Desai: ‘If guests leave smiling, I’ll leave smiling too’
Published 13 June 2025

Winner of the Roux Scholarship in 2009, French-trained chef Hrishikesh Desai has made an indelible mark on British fine dining with his beguiling blend of classical technique layered with Indian flavours. The result, in evidence at his restaurant Cedar Tree at Farlam Hall in Cumbria, is thrillingly delicious.

Next month, he’ll be bringing his front-row-seat 'Hrishi's Table' experience to Claridge's for one night only. Guests can expect pure, dazzling flavours served up with the chef's signature charm and warmth.

My earliest inspiration came from my mum and the memories of watching her cook with such passion and love during family gatherings. As a child, I was mesmerised by how food could bring people together. It inspired me to create Hrishi's Table – my very own chef’s table offering at Farlam Hall.

One of the most defining moments in my career came in 1999, when I was studying at the Institut Paul Bocuse. I saw a Meilleur Ouvrier de France chef, Alain Le Cossec, caramelising a crème brûlée with a blowtorch. It was such a simple yet magical moment, and it truly sparked a deep passion for cooking within me.

I also owe a great deal to the chefs I’ve worked with over the years – Thomas Keller, Olivier Roellinger, Hywel Jones, and others – who helped shape my approach to food, combining precision with creativity. The Roux family has also played a significant role in shaping my career, thanks to one of their premier culinary competitions: the Roux Scholarship.

It’s incredibly difficult to choose just one favourite place to eat, but I suppose it has to be the Ritz in London. The experience there is truly exceptional. From the moment you step inside, you’re swept away by the grandeur of the setting, with its elegant décor and impeccable service. I also love Lucknam Park’s Restaurant Hywel Jones, another classical trained chef with whom I spent almost 10 years honing my skills.

When I’m cooking at home, my go-to dish is a stir-fry with noodles and crispy chicken. It’s a simple one-pan meal but packed with flavour. I throw in fresh vegetables with a bit of chilli, then toss it all together with noodles and crispy chicken, finishing with a splash of light soy sauce. It’s quick, comforting, and exactly what I crave after a long day.

At the restaurant, one of the dishes I’ve especially enjoyed cooking is the poussin stuffed with mushroom Galouti kebab, served with white asparagus and a rich pressed duck leg meat sauce. I’ve also really loved working on the scallop tartare from The Cedar Tree menu.  

For the Claridge’s Kitchen Supper Series I wanted to recreate the culinary journey at our Exceptional-rated Cedar Tree restaurant at Farlam Hall. The menu is made up of our classics - dishes that have naturally evolved over the past few years since their creation.

Well be serving our house bread course which features milk bread, pain poolish, and pavbhaji brioche. Diners are encouraged to dunk the bread into pav bhaji, an Indian street food snack made from a blend of spiced, mashed vegetables that I typically cook with my mother when she visits from India. It celebrates two cuisines close to my heart: Indian and French.

I’m also excited to see how guests respond to the cauliflower dish. It’s completely vegan and built with layers of flavour, so it really showcases how thoughtful plant-based cooking can be.

I hope guests take away a piece of Farlam Hall from this dining experience. We prioritise exceptional food, exquisite wines, unparalleled service and creating experiences that deepen the connection between guests and gastronomy. If guests leave smiling, I’ll leave smiling too.

Buy your ticket for Hrishikesh Desai's evening at Claridge's here.

If you can't make it to our event at Claridge's, Good Food Guide members get 10% off the tasting menu at Cedar Tree, Farlam Hall.