On the inspector’s plate: Bistrot Wild Honey
Published 01 May 2024

The dining room at Bistrot Wild Honey, St James, London

Adjacent to the main restaurant, the little sister of Wild Honey operates as a casual all-day wine bar and bistrot. The dramatic, high-ceilinged space with its white-clothed tables, claret-coloured banquettes and a marble-topped bar with counter seating is, despite the grand style, intimate. Noise levels are kept in check and with service run in a friendly, relaxed manner. Anthony Demetre’s French-inspired menu is filled with the sort of food you really want to eat, especially as prices are reasonable for the Pall Mall location.

On the inspector’s plate Bistrot Wild Honey

We kicked off with the ‘Cinq à Sept’ offer (a glass of wine and choice of ham or cheese croquette for £9, served between 5-7pm), before going on to English asparagus with crushed poached egg vinaigrette, and hand-cut macaroni with spring greens, tiny diced celery and Pecorino Romano. We thought there was quite a lot of finesse to the cooking and enjoyed the generous portions in the main courses of Cornish skate with brown butter and lemon, and flavourful, rustic slow-cooked Tamworth pork petit salé. We were glad we didn’t resist the lure of a classic Paris Brest for dessert. The wine list consists of 25 carefully chosen European options, all available by the glass, carafe or bottle, plus a selection by Coravin.