The wine industry has done a fine job in ensuring that we reach for the grape more readily than the grain when it comes to food and drink pairings, but we’re missing out, says beer-lover Mark Dorber, publican at two Suffolk freehouses, the Anchor, Walberswick, and the Swan, Stratford St Mary: ‘It’s not that beer is better than wine, but the scope is wider. There’s a beer for every food; it’s so much more than just a pint with a curry or a pizza. Hops can inspire really interesting culinary experimentation.’
'It’s so much more than just a pint with a curry'
A chunky Rhone Valley red will no doubt be fabulous with that chargrilled ribeye steak – but have you thought of a robust smoked porter or a malty bitter instead? How about a light fish dish? Set down the Chablis and try a wheat beer which offers just the same bright zestiness.
Mark might pour a rich Fullers ESB (‘extra special bitter’) to go with a sturdy pork knuckle and dumplings dish, or simple gammon and chips: ‘It’s moreish, full-bodied, has hints of Seville orange and real juicy fruitiness. It’s great with mature cheddar too.’
A local Adnams Southwold or Harvey’s Sussex bitter are refreshing accompaniments to fish and chips, he says, the darker malt flavour and rich yeast character coping well with the oil and batter, and teasing out the flavour of the fish. Meanwhile, the fruity, peppery notes of Quartermaine, an English-style IPA from Wimbledon Brewery, new at both Mark’s pubs, will work with dishes with meaty or cheesy heft.
Even chocolate, famously tricky to pair with wine, finds an easy companion in stout. ‘Darker malts have a natural affinity with chocolate because of those lovely deep flavours. There are so many flavour hooks in beer that you don’t get in wine, apart from fortified ones like Banyuls or tawny or non-vintage ports.’
It’s not just about the scope of flavours. The naturally lower alcohol levels of beer mean it works for those moderating their intake, and its informality appeals too. ‘The wine industry has become more approachable,’ says Mark, ‘but there’s still less snobbery around beer compared with wine.’ And its price makes it more accessible. Despite hikes in duty – Mark joins the throng of publicans calling for duty to be lowered in line with European countries – a pint (568ml) in a pub costs on average £5.17, or in London nearing £6.10.
Price is part of the appeal of cask ale for Gen Z pub-goers who are increasingly ordering it, according to the Society of Independent Brewers and Associates. Its YouGov survey, revealed ahead of Cask Ale Week, found that the number of 18-24 year-old beer-drinkers choosing cask has risen 50% over the past year, giving the lie to two notions: that Gen Z doesn’t drink, and that cask ales are the preserve of older drinkers.
'It’s the freshness, flavour and variety that keeps them coming back for more'
Price isn’t the full story, though, says Ash Corbett-Collins, chair of CAMRA, the Campaign for Real Ale: ‘For some, the initial appeal is undoubtedly the fact that cask ale is often the best value beer on the bar, but it's the freshness, flavour and variety that keeps them coming back for more.’ He is hopeful that CAMRA’s campaign to ultimately have cask ale’s unique production and serving process recognised as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage will add more grist to that mill.
