As we launch our search for Britain’s 100 Best Pubs, in partnership with Timothy Taylor's Landlord, it’s worth reminding ourselves of the origins of a dining revolution that changed the way we eat and drink in pubs – and explain why the GFG ended up banning the term ‘gastropub’.
The Eagle, which opened in London’s Clerkenwell in 1991, usually lays claim to the title of Britain’s first gastropub but with our country wide view, we know better. In 1985, the late Denis Watkins took over the Angel at Hetton in Yorkshire, combining the qualities of a traditional English pub with excellent food – it was a winning formula. But it wasn’t until 1996, on the back of the success of the much-copied Eagle, that The Evening Standard coined the word ‘gastropub’ and Watkins found himself described as the ‘godfather of the gastropub’, a description he hated as much as the word.
When the term was picked up by The New York Times in 2003, it marked a crossing of the Atlantic and its widespread use in global media. The gastropub became a bandwagon to be jumped on by chains and other establishments that didn't genuinely embody its original spirit. An overused catch-all which failed to convey the flexible approach to hospitality that pubs have traditionally offered to diners and drinkers, ‘gastropub' became a bit of an ugly word, synonymous with restaurant ambitions.
We called time on ‘gastropub’ in the 2012 edition of the Guide. It was a recalibration on our part – re-emphasising the good old-fashioned values of the pub and all its social diversity. And what better words to express those values than the age-old ‘pub’ and ‘inn’. We’ve never been able to come up with a better description. Can you? Email editors@thegoodfoodguide.co.uk with your suggestions.
The Good Food Guide’s 100 Best Pubs 2025, in partnership with Timothy Taylor’s Landlord is arriving this autumn, and the Guide is calling on you to uncover the very best dining pubs across the country.
We’re looking for the places where brilliant cooking is paired with the spirit of a proper pub. Drinkers should be able to relax over a good selection of real ales or pick over a menu of top-notch bar snacks, while diners can drop in for a one-dish dinner or celebrate with great wines and a seasonal menu featuring quality local produce. There might be crisps behind the bar and crowd-pleasing cheeseburgers, but there will be originality and interest. A healthy dose of community spirit is at the heart of it all.
Nominate now to give your favourite food pub the recognition it deserves and be in with the chance to win £200 in vouchers for a special meal out.
