Ynyshir
Eglwys Fach, Ceredigion
No. 2
Middle-of-nowhere Ynyshir (now painted black) is part restaurant, part theatre, part nightclub and full of sheer, jumpy energy – there’s a resident DJ (perfectly pitched, not so loud that it prevents conversation) and a disco ball that comes into play later in the evening. It’s not dinner, it’s a remarkable experience. Thirty-three (more or less) protein bites, no carbs and not a green vegetable in sight – this is Gareth Ward’s polished view of Britain’s multicultural food scene. He’s basically applying modern western European fine dining to east/south-east Asian food, serving it in a looser, less starchy style. The result is one exciting mouthful after another: lobster with nahm jim and satay; miso-cured black cod with aged kaluga and shiitake; chicken katsu; pork char siu. Before the pandemic, we worried that the chef was in a rut, fixating on gutsy meat/fat/salt cooking and a not-very-changeable small-bites menu. But the long Welsh lockdowns gave time to rethink, regroup, make changes. The result is better balanced, more refined, and tied to what is good that day. There is no menu, although you are introduced to the raw ingredients on arrival. Some ideas are core (the A5 Japanese wagyu burger, the lamb rib), but there is enough movement to keep the kitchen fresh and engaged, rather than constantly perfecting the same dishes. That said, ‘Not French onion’, served on arrival, is something that has evolved over the years and is a deeply satisfying broth of unexpected depth – a good way to prepare your palate for the rest of the meal. Although there is a lot going on here – hints of sour-sweet and a vivid balancing and layering of flavours provided by yuzu, nashi pear, black bean, hoisin, dashi, sweet chilli, even foie gras and oscietra caviar – the subtle contours of the cooking rarely blur. Each mouthful stands out vividly, whether crisp scampi with sweet chilli sauce or a morsel of scallop topped with a sliver of duck liver in a dashi broth or, more delicately, a cube of aged otoro tuna speared on a wooden pick and served at room temperature. This is top-end cooking (with prices to match) presented in a highly casual, vibrant, almost irreverent setting. The food is served by the chefs themselves (who clearly enjoy being there) against a backdrop of seemingly black walls (in daylight, a really deep green), wooden floorboards, wood and metal tables, and high-backed wooden chairs (we asked for cushions), positioned so that diners look towards the open kitchen, theatre-style. It feels more like Shoreditch than deeply rural Wales. As for wine, the sommelier can be relied on for sound recommendations to match the food.
Dining Information:
Accommodation, Separate bar, Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Parking, Electric car charging, Family friendly, Pre-payment required
Eglwys Fach, Eglwys Fach, Ceredigion SY20 8TA
01654 781209
