Wild Artichokes
Kingsbridge, Devon
Entry
Driven by the humane principle that life is better when we are together, Wild Artichokes is a sure-fire success story. Samantha Miller and Jane Baxter's eccentrically located restaurant, among motor repair shops down a rubbly back alley in the intestines of Kingsbridge, runs to a 'shared table' format, encouraging sociable dining and the chance to discuss Jane's food with people you haven't yet met. Tables are loaded almost haphazardly with dishes in waves of starters plus a main course with accompaniments, punctuated by the intermezzo of a pasta dish – perhaps cuttlefish lasagne or an array of seafood with black cavatelli. The cooking has an appealingly domestic air, but one that almost belies the accomplished technique that underpins it. There are layers of resonance in the simplest offerings: whipped cod's roe, rabbit rillettes or a salad of mussels, saffron, potato and fennel. Italian foodways inform much of what is served, but not to the exclusion of, say, some crab and prawn empanadas. The meat main course might be a duck crown or veal chops with spinach, lemon and sage – all chaperoned to table by a bouquet of artichokes, broad beans and peas, potatoes sharpened with pecorino, and a smartly dressed green salad. Desserts are always a threesome: say, rhubarb and orange sundae, chocolate and ginger pudding with caramel custard, and pear and almond tart. A short wine list just about covers it, but more choices by the glass would be very much appreciated and not difficult to organise.
Dining Information:
No background music, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Pre-payment required
Unit 1, Centurion Works, Lower Union Road, Kingsbridge, Devon TQ7 1EF
07376 559078
