Trattoria Maria

The quaint name contrasts with the very urban setting of this new arrival from the team behind beloved Bench. On a particularly uncharacterful street in Sheffield's 'Heart of the City' development, the exterior is all flat walls and fogged windows, while inside it’s one big room which gets buzzy and loud of a weekend evening. There are real gems to be found among the antipasti – stracciatella and caponata with very soft focaccia for dunking or superb saffron and cuttlefish ragù arancini – while southern Italian sunshine dominates the pastas and secondi. A word of warning: the dirty Martini on the pre-drinks menu is only £6.50 and not at all small, while the classic Negroni is a tempting £5 all day, every day. Wines are funky and more of an investment.